14,600 feet above Sea Level

Location	:	Se La Pass (Arunachal Pradesh)
Height	:	14,600 Ft above Sea Level
Month	:	April
Temperature	:	Freezing (-4 C)
Visisbility	:	100 mts (Approx)

I was on my way to Tawang which is approximately 40 kms from the tri-junction of Bhutan,China and India, when we passed Se La pass. Se La, Situated at a height of 4,190 meters is the gateway to the Jang-Tawang Sector. It can be said to be an impregnable defensive position due to its horse-shoe formation, rugged peaks and great height. The Flat area on top is extensive and includes two small lakes bordered by large patches of bushes. We got down from our Tata-Sumo to capture a few snaps at this exotic location. The cloud cover and the fog slowly cleared, as if Se La wanted us to see its beauty. The Lake was frozen, sitting snuggly between the snow covered mountains. There had been a blizzard around 30 hours back, the effects still visible. Few yaks were grazing at the bushes, a solitary army bull-dozer was clearing the snow off the road. While clicking away with my camera I came across a monument built in the memory of soldiers who laid there lives protecting this strategically important post during the Sino-Indian war of '62. Suddenly the fog started setting in very rapidly, the whole place became very silent. The chugging of the bull-dozer fell away. Se La wanted to take us back to in time. It wanted us to relive that moment of history. It wanted us to remember and pay homage to those martyr's who laid their lives in the line of duty.

November 16th 1962. There had been a lull in fighting for around 10 days during which the Chinese tried certain diplomatic measures which were totally unacceptable to India. The Indian troops had abandoned Tawang and set up their defenses in Se La, Dirang Dzong and Bomdilla. The approximately 100kms route between Bomdilla to Se La was of utmost stategic importance for the protection of NEFA. The whole route is through treacherous mountains at heights above 5000 Ft above sea level. The most difficult task for the Army was to maintain regular supplies for the troops deployed at these locations. The troops did not have proper winter clothing. They were not acclimatized to the high altitudes and were falling sick. The Chinese had utilized this time in replenishing their troops at Tawang and to rebuild some of the bridges destroyed by Indians on their retreat from Tawang.

What followed between 16th Nov from the first attack on Se La till 18th Nov when Bomdilla finally fell to the Chinese can only be considered as a series of blunders by the top commanders of the Army. Indecision, Unawareness of situation on ground and lack of Intelligence about the enemy location,strength and movements led to the falling of Se La, an impregnable natural fortress, desertion of Dirang Dzong by Indian Army without putting up a fight, and finally Bomdilla where the soldiers put up a brave fight. In all these incidents at no point of time the bravery and valour of Indian Troops could be questioned. Wherever there was a fight, the Chinese (who outnumbered Indian troops 9 to 1) suffered 5 times the casualties suffered by Indians.
The Chinese were able to cut across the Dirang Dzong - Se La Sector. This led to Se La being open to attack from behind. On getting this information the various companies posted at Se La were ordered to withdraw. The plan of withdrawal was to be implemented between 17th and 18th November. The plan of withdrawal was not implemented in an orderly fashion which led to confusion among troops. Moreover one company of 4 Sikh LI and 7 Mahar (Medium weight Machine Gun MMG) never got the information of withdrawal. Unaware of the Infantry's withdrawal and in absence of any orders the MMG Section continued to occupy its position. Later they were encircled by the Chinese and attacked in the cover of darkness. The Chinese hurled grenades, the full burnt of which was borne by Havildar Gobind Kamble, the section commander. His both legs were blown away. Undaunted by this, he took over the MMG and ordered his troops to withdraw and gave them cover fire. Even in his injured state he kept the enemy at bay till the last round in his gun inflicting heavy casualties and ensuring safe escape of his troops. Hav Gobind Kamble was awarded the Vir Chakra posthumously.

As the fog cleared and once more I came back to the present having solemnly paid my homage to the brave soldiers who lay there. We resumed our journey towards Tawang. Oh! What a journey it is! Uncountable twists and turns, snow covered mountains on all sides, yaks grazing on bushes, dangerous ridges, deep gorges! Every moment of the journey is thoroughly enjoyable(ie if you don't get mountain sickness). Famous for the holy Buddhist monastery the "GALDEN NAMGYEL LHATSE", Tawang also has more than forty exquisite lakes in its vincinity. P T Tso (Tso meaning lake in local dialect) is the biggest and the most beautiful of all lakes.

If adventure tourism is your cup of tea and mountains are what you love, then a trip to Tawang should be on cards for you.
For information about tourism in Arunachal Pradesh click here or mail me.

More musings next week

Cherio

[ctsy: www.bharat-rakshak.com, www.arunachalpradesh.nic.in ]